Kei Kawai: Balancing act
‘Since I was a child I have lived a life connected to Buddhism. It has always been a source of guidance, both philosophically and as a source of inspiration artistically.’
KEI KAWAI is a Japanese unisex clothing brand, launched earlier this year. At the heart of KEI KAWAI's design philosophy lies the profound influence of Zen Buddhism, infusing its creations with elements of minimalism, functionality, and unity. This spiritual and philosophical tradition, deeply rooted in Japanese culture, is known for its focus on simplicity, mindfulness, and harmonious living.
The Japanese label translates these principles into fashion, promoting a feeling of oneness with nature, society, and the self, creating a holistic experience for those who don the brand's creations.
Could you outline a little bit about the philosophy behind Kei Kawai, its origins and how it was born?
I have refined my philosophy of design influenced strongly by Zen Buddhism - minimal and waste-less construction, utilitarian and economic lines, and a calming and unified tonal pallet. All these elements work in harmony to create the unique clothing brand that is Kei Kawai. My family are Buddhists, and since I was a child I have lived a life connected to Buddhism. It has always been a source of guidance, both philosophically and as a source of inspiration artistically.
You have just released your second collection, could you speak us through the message you are trying to convey in this collection?
The central source of inspiration for this collection are sharks. Japan is an island surrounded by a rich and diverse aquamarine ecosystem, and sharks in particular are fascinating to me. Besides the fear they inspire, there is a kind of strange charisma to this sleek water-world predator. I made various design experiments using the gills, fins, and skin as keywords, in an attempt to capture in clothing the biological characteristics and textures of a shark. I have used experimental techniques that are rarely found in modern fashion design, and incorporated them into this ready-to-wear collection. The filming location for the photoshoot was inspired by the movie JAWS, all shot on a beach in Camber Sands, England by my collaborators Ben and Natalia Holland.
Your brand follows the Zen Buddhism identity, how has this influenced your brand and its design processes?
The concepts of Zen Buddism are strongly reflected in my 1st collection. This collection was created according to Zen’s minimalist principals, and also drawing heavily on the ink paintings of Taisen Machida, a monk and author of the Tendai sect.
Could you speak about some of your references that have inspired you when designing?
When I started fashion design, I was inspired especially by the Japanese brand Comme des Garçons. This is because COMME des GARÇONS, although being a global giant, still stay true to their authentic non-conformist design values. Currently I am conducting research based on data gathered from social media, and collaborating with designers such as Cory Infinite and Mat Zabala of Central Saint Martins menswear.
In your work, there's a clear connection that you draw inspiration from military elements and structures in your designs, and how do you translate these influences into wearable pieces that reflect both functionality and minimalism?
I often use a colour pallet that could be described as military - deep olive, khaki and grey - there is an element of urban camouflage that runs throughout these recent collections.
How do you approach designing fashion that goes beyond traditional gender norms?
I don’t have a specific body shape in mind when I design, my clothing is all unisex and I like to think of it as available to everyone and anyone.
How does your brand implement sustainability in its design process?
In the modern fashion industry, there is a strong sense of dominance among brands with large amounts of capital, and there are many big players who mass-produce products and buy them at cheap, fast-fashion-like price ranges. At Kei Kawai, we produce items one by one on a made-to-order basis, aiming to create items with both originality and sustainability that are not suitable for mass production.
How has your Japanese heritage impacted your design process and what influences when finding inspiration for your collections?
Japan has a rich and thriving anime subculture, and I grew up surrounded by such authoritative anime artists. It is for more than nostalgia that I look to these visual tales that I loved as a child, even now, they are a strong source of inspiration for their complex designs, themes, and collages.
What does the future hold for Kei Kawai?
For the 3rd upcoming collection, we will incorporate structural elements into tech wear, in addition to delving deeper into traditional Japanese costume designs.
Images courtesy of Kei Kawai
