Alex Kurunis: Rougatsia in Veria

Rougatsia in Veria - a portrait series documenting the traditional dress and participants of the custom ‘Rougatsia’, a tradition that dates back centuries, and one which has morphed and changed with time.

Alex Kurunis is a London based photographer. Born in Greece, raised in England, Alex’s dual heritage has informed his eye for photography; from experiencing the juxtaposition of two vivid yet different cultures from a young age. Alex’s work is rooted in social documentary, human interaction, and tradition or customs that bring people together. He is especially intrigued by instances where displays of tradition intersect with modernity.

In December of 2022, Alex tagged along with a group of Rougatsia participants in the city of Veria, Greece, to document their long held custom.

The custom occurs in various forms and styles across the Roumlouki region of Greece. During the proceedings, the group of ‘Rougatsias’ parade through the town or village, singing and dancing outside of homes and businesses. Residents believe the group have healing properties, and rush to see them in action upon hearing them, offering donations or treats such as snacks and shots of Tsipouro.

The participants are renowned for their chests being adorned with a personalised arrangement of antiquated coins and chains, sewn into their waistcoats. As well as this, their fustanellas (traditional pleated skirt-like garment) and swords are central to their dress.

The first origins of the custom are said to originate in festivals of the ancient Greeks in midwinter, when sacrifices were made to Dionysus and other Gods.

Later on in the Byzantine period, mercenaries would collect and demand ‘roga’, an annual tax from inhabitants. The etymology of the latin word ‘Rogatio’ - to demand, suggests this informed the name ‘Rougatsia’ in its earlier stages. Hence why the dress features a sword. Nowadays the custom has become about collecting for the local community, without the forcible nature, and the sword is now made of wood.

Previously, the custom was enacted only by men, nowadays, it is proudly upheld by a variety of ages, with the younger members expressing pride at their involvement, often alongside their father or older brother in a troupe.